How to Sew a Skirt from a Pinafore
My client brought me a pinafore in order to make a skirt from it and to sew it on this waist-belt. For this purpose we just separate the skirt from the bodice in full-circle and measure the waist. Take the tape and just measure it this way. My client has a waist of 103 sm.
Cut away all the unnecessary buttons. Now we admeasure it according to the joint line of a bodice and skirt in order to cut it along the buttonhole; it’s 1.5 sm above the line, so we mark it circle-wise. Draw the dotted lines in a frequent manner, as a full line may be curve, and then cut it off like this. Now the bodice is separated from the skirt. My client wants a waist-belt with an extension. It will be situated at this level. It will look like this. We will also have a wrap here. We won’t cut it at once; just mark it with a chalk. So it will be stretched between these edges. Admeasure 103 sm from this mark, and add length of the wrap after that. Now meter a wrap. I’ve got a wrap of 10 sm, so we also lay it off here.
Bring to notice that the distance between these marks is 103 sm, this is the needed waist length. This part of the waist-belt will include an extension, a buttonhole and a button or a sticker as you like. You had better tack it before fitting. I have fastened it with pins as a first step: as you see there are several pins over there, but I will also tack it after that. Don’t clip anything – we have already separated a bodice from the skirt, it’s enough for now. We will deal with the remaining part a little bit later. The waist-belt should stay whole. I am going to tack it. As you see the borders are not edged yet.
We make a bar tack here, extracting the pins along the way. Make one more bar tack and tack it together in full-circle. Put a pin over here – or you had better pin it from the outside. That’s all; now we invite a client for fitting.
The fitting is done. We will have rather a button and a buttonhole here. Before removing the basting seam we need to draw a line. The line should be situated in full-circle under the waist-belt. So we draw it up to here. We do it in order to tuck the skirt into the waist-belt according to this line.
We leave the pins at the edges or – if you have a basting seam – leave only bar tacks here and there. Pull out the remaining pins and then stitch a lower part of the waist-belt. We will proceed stitching from here. But before that we should consider the width of the covered skirt: thus, the width of the waist-belt will be 0.7 sm, and the width of the skirt – 1.2 sm. We need to do this so as to fit a chalk line. Begin stitching from this place. The second seam will be placed here on the distance of 0.1 sm.
Let’s go ahead with our work. Make a barred end and start stitching.
The skirt goes beyond for approximately 2-3 mm. Ok, now we will stitch an upper level of the waist-belt. It will be situated on the top of the waist-belt; you may fasten or tack it beforehand. As you see there are 1.5 sm left for a serging seam. We keep going to make a seam on the waist-belt with the widest possible seaming pitch, setting back 0.1-0.2 sm from the edge. Those who have experience in sewing can make only one seam, i.e. without tacking a lower belt. But we have run supporting action by making a second stitch, which will cover the lower part of the belt.
Stretch the belt to avoid the folds. In the end make a solid barred end. In this case the belt bending enables us to make a setback even of 1.5 sm. Remove all the tacking or pins. One more buttonhole to go. Adjust the machine for making a button hole, and pierce it. The diameter of the buttonhole must correspond to the button size. This edge must be tacked. I will use zigzag, but it is also possible to use the serger. Mind that if you use a serger you won’t be able to make barred ends at the edges, as opposed to zigzag. If the buttonhole happened to be longer than you needed, jut make a shorter cut.
Ok, let’s keep going. So it will be situated here, it means that we have to place a button right here, according to the button hole. I hope you know how to sew on a button, so I won’t show it. Then we need to check the arrangement of the other buttons; you can also do it during the fitting. So this one needs to be here, and this one stays on the same place for some reason. Ok, now cut away this button and sew it on this place, and the other one goes here. Look, the belt does not even need ironing. That’s all.